I first met Ed Taylor at the Kingston Farmer’s market.  I was buying leeks from him.  Huge leeks with milk white bottoms and shiny dark leaves and the dirt still clinging to the roots.  Our transaction completed, he asked me what I was going to do with them.  I was surprised.  Surely a person who grew such wonderful produce would know how to cook them.  I looked at Ed.  He was darkly tanned with a shock of white hair that would rival Einstein’s; the ball cap pulled over it did little to minimize the effect.  Soil still clung to the undersides of his fingernails.  He had twinkly eyes and I realized that of course he knew how to cook leeks - he was just interested in how I cook mine.

This interaction is the impetus behind Sandi and Ed Taylor’s market garden business.  They own Honey Wagon Farms in Prince Edward County, growing 13 acres of chemical free fruit and vegetables and running a small maple syrup operation.  The couple sell their produce Saturdays at the Kingston Farmer’s Market but they also supply a number of local restaurants.  I was delighted to take part in their recent farm experience program in August.

The sky was a moody, purple colour that morning but Ed and Sandi were happy and welcoming.  I am always struck by the deference this couple show each other -in life and in business.  When I looked at the green fields stretching out toward the bruised sky, I understood the massive task to which these two devote themselves.  Their passion for the land is an extension of themselves.  We were fortunate to be part of their embrace for a morning.

It began with a tour of equipment but it morphed into a valuable lesson.  An old finger planter bought for a hundred bucks at auction is used to plant seedlings in the ground.  They plant seedlings, as opposed to seeds, so that the veggies will get a jumpstart on the weeds - all plants compete for light and space; weeds would win otherwise. Following their commitment to chemical free farming, the weeds get the same chance at survival.   Ed and Sandi pointed out that the use of chemicals and pesticides in farming helps to keep labour costs low which in turn keeps the prices at the grocery stores low.  This is a cycle the consumer perpetuates by insisting on buying whatever’s cheapest.

The drive shed sheltered an antique horse drawn potato planter.  It was used behind a tractor to plant eighteen, 900 foot rows of nine different varieties of potatoes: canabec, purple, fingerling, small red, to name a few.  By planting so many different types, the couple circumvent grocery store prices by providing unique, quality produce.  It also serves as insurance in the event of fickle weather where one variety might flounder while another thrives; or pests that might target one variety over another.  The Colorado potato beetle decimated the fingerling crop this year but there were enough red and Yukon gold potatoes that survived to harvest.  All in all the couple plant 72 different vegetables and end up producing over 50 000 different varieties.

Our tour was halted by the arrival of chef Kevin McKenna of Capers Restaurant in Belleville.  He was on his weekly pick up of produce for the restaurant.  It was interesting to follow the discourse between Kevin and the Taylors – some of the expected veggies hadn’t grown enough without rain the previous week so substitutions were made. The changes were easily accepted.  This dynamic relationship, face to face each week, boosts the knowledge for both the chefs and the farmers.  Chefs learn what vegetables and fruits are in season, how long they take to grow, how long their harvest time is and the amount of work it might take to harvest (cape gooseberries take a long time to pick as opposed to zucchinis for example).  The farmers learn what the chefs are looking for to expand their menus and in this way are introduced to varieties they may never have heard of but are willing to try.  “We try everything”, exclaimed Sandi.

We were wading through the hip-high pumpkin patch when thunder rumbled loudly.  By the time we’d seen how the potato harvester worked, the rain started.  We ran for the Taylor’s gazebo.  Chef Michael Potters, of Harvest Restaurant in Picton, had coffee ready with the most delicious pastries for accompaniment.  While we drank coffee and recapped our morning, Michael prepared a salad using ingredients that we had helped to pick.  The practiced rock of Michael’s knife blade echoed the soothing sound of the rain on the roof.  The salad included darling patti pan squash and sweet peas tossed with a fresh herb vinaigrette.   The herbs perfumed the air as they were chopped.

Then we sat down to lunch: vichycoise,  proscuitto and tomato-filled baguette, charcuterie and a selection of salads.  The rain and sun took turns filling the sky several times during our leisurely meal.  It ended with the most delectable brownies I had ever tasted.   We were more than filled. 
The Taylors are generous with their knowledge and their commitment to farming practices that minimize their environmental footprint is admirable.  Their relationships with those devoted to the skill of preparing their produce, like chef Potters and chef McKenna as well as thirteen others, are to be wondered at.  It was fun to be part of that for the day.